The Cairo Museum and the Pyramids

Wednesday, December-22-10   10:30 AM

I’m writing this post in a sleeper car on the train to Aswan. We left Cairo last night shortly after 9:30 and expect to arrive in an hour or so. Because I had no access to the internet yesterday (as well as no spare time) I was unable to send a post about our adventures. So I will write about those now.

We began the day with a visit to the Egyptian museum, located in a large Greco-Roman style building close to the Nile. Prior to the 19^th century the Egyptian governments and people had shown little interest or concern over the multitude of antiquities spread about the country. During that century, however, travellers and explorers from various countries began to collect and to write about their finds. In the latter part of the century a French fellow lobbied the government – it was then a British protectorate – to begin a co-ordinated approach to gathering and caring for these Egyptian treasures. One result was the building of this museum, stated in 1897 and opened in 1901. It is an overwhelming exhibit of history ranging back over 5000 years. We had about 2 ½ hours to explore. Our guide, Maged, who is licensed for these tours took us around, weaving through the crowds, showing and explaining to us the major periods of Egyptian history through their statutes and artefacts. The last wing that we visited houses the Tutankhamen materials. There were about 5300 pieces salvaged from his tomb. We had seen a few of these in the two exhibits that had come to Toronto but there were many wonderful things that we had seen only in photographs. Some of the over 5000 pieces are small figures or bottles, and so on, but there were large pieces as well: chariots, chairs, and other pieces of furniture covered with gold. All of the compartments that held the gold sarcophagus were shown separately. They are quite large, the largest several cubic meters. I believe that they must have been put together within the burial chamber rather than being brought in whole. Within was the solid gold sarcophagus, itself enclosed within two separate coffins in the shape of the mummy. Each of these is covered with gold and inlaid with gems and with various signs and symbols related to the king and to the various deities who were called upon to protect and help him in the afterlife.  Mark and I will go back again when we stay by ourselves in Cairo as there is simply so much to be seen. Among the various figures shown I identified most with “the scribe”: a seated figure with a parchment or tablet in his lap. He is looking outward at activities and making notes on it all. My kind of guy.

From the museum we drove out to Giza to see the pyramids. The scale is enormous and is only grasped when from a distance one sees the tiny humans climbing up one side to the entrance. There are about 2.5 million slabs of stone – mostly limestone – in the largest of the three, that of Cheops. The stones look to be about 5 cubic feet each. Do the math! Only 400 people/day are allowed to enter the largest pyramid so we had no chance of getting tickets for that experience. We did go up close to it and stood on the lower levels to take some photos. There were many little entrepreneurs about, of course, flogging postcards, frig magnets, tiny pyramids, and many other things. I was able to just head past them but one fellow really persisted with me and he was so funny that I enjoyed him. He started by offering me some small pyramids “as a gift.” Knowing well the ploy, I refused his overture. From there he was showing me necklaces, cards and so on and changing prices and grouping items and all the while flattering me about being a Canadian and such a nice woman. I was laughing so hard at the whole performance that I ended by giving him 50 Egyptian pounds (about $9 Canadian) for a necklace of white stones with a white stone scarab at the bottom, a group of 10 postcards, a headdress with the cord circle for Mark, and several small pyramids with symbols of the various pharaohs. I thought it was well worth it not just for the stuff but for the fun I had with him.

All around the area were men on camels in full Bedouin regalia soliciting photos to be taken with them for a tip. We eluded these guys but one of them literally grabbed Mark and wrapped a large scarf around his head and pushed him onto the saddle of his seated camel. I took photos of the whole performance. Everyone was laughing about what the guy was doing, including Mark. Afterwards the man demanded money. Mark said that he had none, that I had it all. I said that I had none, that Mark had it all. I relented and gave him a small tip and he acted all mad and got on his camel and sulked. What a deal.

From the pyramid of Cheops we moved to another area – via our van – where we had a view of all three; again, lots of photos, group and otherwise. What came next was the scariest but one of the more memorable experiences to date: camel riding. I had promised myself before we left TO that I would do it so do it I did. It cost $10 US. We were stung out in groups of four camels connected to one another by a rope from the head of one to the back pommel of the one ahead of it in line. I climbed aboard; when the huge beast swung up and down to stand I was sure I would pitch off. I was holding tight to the front and back pummels and trying to feel balanced by leaning back, as everyone was saying to do. The owner of the camels looked at me and said, “Lady, relax your body and let the camel work. He is the Cadillac of camels.” So I just held on at front and tried to let go a bit and just trust to the fates. Down we went into a small valley, across a plain of sand, to the smallest of the three pyramids. Throughout the entire ride of about a kilometre I was making noises, sort of like, ah, ah, AH!! Then I would laugh and go on with the noises. It was totally involuntary but it seemed to help me relax enough to get through. It was actually quite exhilarating and fun. It would take some experience to get used to it though the younger people on the tour took to it quite easily, and Mark, who has ridden horses did so as well.

At the smaller pyramid we had another peak experience, moving down into the pyramid to the burial chamber. The passageway was at about a 45 degree angle; it was narrow – people coming up passed us just barely, and, the ceiling was low to very low at points. One had to manage the boards and rails and duck further and further down to almost in half to avoid banging one’s head on the rock ceiling. All of this had to happen quickly because of the people pouring down behind. Nothing was left in the burial place but there were other smaller chambers with spaces carved out for other burial materials that we were able to access. Going back up and out of the pyramid was easier as the day was ending and no further people were descending. All of us have sore quads today from the climb up and down.

Once out we literally ran for our van to hustle over to the area of the Sphinx. All of the centres that one can enter require tickets and all close at 4PM. When we arrived at the Sphinx a security guard grabbed Maged by the arm and said that we were too late. They argued briefly; then the guard turned slightly away and nodded; Maged reached into his belly pack and slipped some baksheesh to the guard and then all was fine. We rushed down and passed through the crowded entrance where one can get closer views. Up the stairs, poses, photos, down the stairs, and the confrontations with the usual plethora of salespeople. I bought one small frig magnet showing Nefertiti. Outside the area a little girl, maybe about 8 years old was minding some handmade little hats decorated with beads. I asked her the price and she said $1. Her father or uncle immediately came over to remonstrate with her and to tell me that she didn’t know what she was saying. He wanted $8US for each. No. She said then $5 for two. Again he was annoyed. In the end I did give them $5US that I had and came away with two for my small bunny girls. I took a picture of the girl to show them. She was a real smarty-pants who knew what she was doing.

We went out to a restaurant in a suburban area of Cairo then. We had several hours to wait before the train to Aswan. An excellent Egyptian meal was provided: grilled chicken and lamb, minced and shaped like small sausages; pita bread made fresh by a woman at an outdoor oven by the gate; hummus and tahini; grilled eggplant; sweet desserts like baklava but without so many nuts; and, tea or coffee. From there we visited an Egyptian cotton factory store. There were some very nice things but they were rather expensive and people were just too tired by then to have much interest. We arrived at the station with still about an hour and a half to spare. Some of us went to a small shop nearby to buy water, pop, chips, and biscuits. Finally, onto the train and into our sleeper rooms. Two to a cabin; a couch on one wall which converted to a bed; above another bed which could be lowered. Opposite, a cupboard that opened revealing a sink and a mirror with an overhead light.

We were brought dinner by a dignified fellow – like an airplane meal. Afterward he came around turning down the beds and we were all set for the night by 11PM. I slept really well until 9AM despite stops and noises from the corridor. It was divine.

Remember to look to the bottom to see more photos. Take care and have a good holiday time. Brenda.