Seeking Ethnology

Sunday, January-02-11 8:30PM

Today has been an unusual day for us. We have not been out as much and have no particular adventures to report. We intended trying the Citadel again but we were dissuaded by a fellow who approached us close to the hotel to invite us to his shop. He said that given the recent violence in Alexandria, police are seriously stepping up security. He believes that places like the Citadel would be closed for a few days. We decided instead to head for an Ethnological Museum on the east bank. Our guide book said that its exhibits were focussed on the ways of life of the Egyptian people. We took the subway to the area shown on the book’s map. Though we had the actual address we had a very difficult time finding it. Except for main streets most are not signed; if they are the signs are in Arabic. We were clearly within a block or two of the place but no one whom we stopped knew of it. Perhaps they knew it under a name different than “The Ethnological Museum,” for no one understood. We were directed this way and that all to no purpose. It became quite funny after a time.

We spoke to a couple of soldiers and to a fellow emerging from a grocery store without getting any clearer. One group of teens chatting beside some cars suggested a large building close by. It was an impressive place with antique figures decorating the exterior and with lovely gardens. We climbed the stairs to speak to the lone figure sitting at a desk at the top. His head was on his arm and he was half asleep. The price of admission was 2 EL. We paid and went in. It was an enormous mausoleum, beautifully detailed with marble and with high arching ceilings. There were no others visitors; the only thing within was a centrally placed marble tomb. It was definitely not the Ethnological Museum. Across the street was a school which we gathered was associated in some fashion with the occupant of the tomb. Perhaps he had endowed it. As we passed a gaggle of pre-teen girls called out “hello.” I stopped and asked them about the museum. They shook their heads in total incomprehension, dissolved into giggles, and ran across the way. A passing man took up the challenge, indicating that the street we sought was the one further down the block. From there, he indicated, turn left. We did so, walking at length in that direction without seeing anything promising.

As we went along we were constantly hailed by children and men – waving, saying hello, smiling and shouting out, “Welcome to Egypt.” It was like being rock stars. Most westerners who come to Cairo are tourists who tend to congregate at the usual touristic locations. When we walk around other areas or use the Metro we rarely see others dressed like or looking like ourselves. This is especially true when we visit strictly Egyptian shopping and housing areas. There is a lot of awareness of us there and it is all very friendly and fun.

After our last effort to find the museum, speaking with a couple of people emerging from a centre for journalists, we decided to give up on it and to think of it as an actual, real-life ethnological experience. Instead we headed toward the Nile and into an area called the Garden City. This is a heavily gated space along the Nile south of the bridge near our hotel. Many large and beautiful homes there are surrounded by fences and have their own private security in evidence. Some are embassies, apparently the Canadian Embassy is there but we did not see it; others are probably the homes of wealthy Egyptians or perhaps foreign business people. We came across a nice little pastry shop/cafe and stopped there for lunch. As we walked along the Nile corniche afterward, we saw feluccas just below. These can be commissioned for a private sail at about 50 EL/hour. We plan to go out on one at dusk, possibly tomorrow.

We visited the Sofitel at the tip of the large island nearby on the way back. It is a beautiful and comfortable place, like all hotels here surrounded by heavy security. As westerners, however, we are able to walk into any place like that without challenge. It is assumed that we are guests. We took a look at some of their facilities and sat briefly on a patio alongside the river. Mark is keen to go back there for lunch. We have been told that there is a restaurant on their top floor which commands a terrific view of the city and the Nile. I think that Mark is more interested in sitting out on one of the patios, however.

So that is about our entire day. A plan changed, another thwarted, but little adventures along the way. We walked out an hour or so ago to a local pastry shop for a pizza and some baklava. Supper in the room; CNN International; reading and writing. A pleasant and relaxing time. Remember to scroll to the bottom for more photos. Take care and keep in touch. Brenda.