Conquering Rome: Part 1

Sunday, December-12-10 6:45AM
We arrived in Rome yesterday about 1:30PM, though it was closer to 4:30 by the time we reached our hotel, Marco Polo, a block from the main train station. Our flight from Toronto was delayed about an hour due to de-icing procedures, but otherwise was unremarkable. Because we had saved aeroplan points forever, we were able to fly business class -- oh, the joy of it. We were seated at the very front of the plane, in seats 2C & D. These were not so much seats as little self-contained pods. Mark’s was at a 45 degree angle from mine across an aisle. The chairs had a myriad of lighted buttons at one side, allowing me to sit or lie in a variety of positions from up-right to fully prone. I was provided with a large pillow, a blanket, and a small bag containing a toothbrush and paste, skin cream, lip balm, covers for my headset, and an eye mask. We were offered glasses of orange juice and/or champagne while we settled in to explore our new terrain.

Our “executive class” designation was lowest on the totem pole of privilege. Beyond us lay those in the “elite” and the “super-elite” categories. What luxuries they enjoyed that were not available to us cannot be imagined. Menus were distributed for dinner: an appetizer of smoked salmon; a salad; choice of beefsteak, chicken, pasta, or blackened cod; a cheese plate; and, ice cream and fruit plates. These courses were accompanied with one’s choice of wines, liquors, soft drinks, water, tea and coffee. Trays and a TV screen swung out from the interior of one’s pod. I watched Woody Allen’s movie, You Will Meet a Tall, Dark Stranger while eating. Immediately afterward I organized my seat into a bed, snuggled down with my pillow and blanket and slept soundly until awakened about 3 ½ hours later for breakfast: juice, yogurt, chocolate croissants (or regular ones with jam), and coffee. Not too much later we arrived in Frankfurt, Germany for a stop-over and transfer to a Lufthansa connecting flight to Rome. So far nothing but pleasantness and pampering.

At Frankfurt airport nothing but tiredness and frustration. The wrong line – through security checks; shown back out and into another line – customs, then security again. Long trots to find the crowded lounge. I must get a wheeled carry-on! Another trot to the gate. Plane delayed as arrived late from Munich where they had been inundated with snow. Throughout this whole period as well as during our various modes of transport until we reached the hotel, I was blessedly comatose, falling asleep each time I had a chance to sit anywhere. The Lufthansa plane was smaller than our trans-Atlantic Air Canada shuttle and had fewer amenities for us “executives.” We were given an interesting lunch though: small dishes of curried chicken, shrimp in a tasty sauce, and fried pineapple – together with delicious buns, drinks, and chocolates.

Once on the ground in Rome we retrieved our luggage and headed outside, opting for a bus shuttle to the Termini – the central train station close to our hotel. The one that would take us directly there had departed, however, according to their friendly competitors. They (the competitors) would take us to another station for just 6 Eros; from there we could take the 175 bus over to the Termini for a further 1 Euro each. We agreed. The 175 was at the station as promised; we boarded with our suitcases, computers, and backpacks and luckily were seated, as the trip to the Termini, though not far was almost an hour in length, taking a great arc around much of the city. At last: the Termini! Our hotel was not difficult to find – just a block away. It is on the third (fourth to a Canadian) floor of a five (six) story building. Each floor houses a separate hotel. (The one on the fifth floor is called Fawlty Towers.) We ascended via an ancient and tiny elevator which just barely contained us and our luggage. We were checked in and shown to our tiny room along the corridor. To say it is basic is an understatement, however, it is now home for the next five nights. There are two narrow single beds, a desk with a mini-bar underneath, two night tables, a wardrobe, a chair for the desk, and a bathroom with shower. It faces out into the airspace/courtyard, so it is quieter than many rooms in the area. With the heavy drapes pulled it becomes our own little womb/room for retirement after our walks about the city.

Mark had a nap while I returned to the Termini for a nostalgic walk-about. My grandson, Theron and I spent a lot of time there during our last two days in Rome a little over a year ago. I had a gelato in his honour, perused the enormous book store and checked out train tickets to Florence. Mark and I had supper at a bar opposite the Termini – not so great food, and then headed out to get lost in the big city. We walked for about 2 ½ hours, finding ourselves near the Coliseum. A fellow who said he was from Chechnya approached us wanting us to take a picture with his camera of the Coliseum with himself in the foreground. He kept showing Mark different things on the camera and wanting us to go further down a nearby set of steps with him. Suddenly two big guys approached and flashed some kind of ID. They wanted to know if we were together. Then they asked to see the guy’s money. He gave them his wallet; they went through it and then wanted to see ours. Mark said he wasn’t comfortable with that and said he wouldn’t show it. The “police” said OK, just move on, and we did. The Chechnya fellow went in another direction quickly. Mark thought it was all a scam, but I think that they were police because they certainly didn’t threaten us in any way. They said that they were concerned about cocaine selling in the area. The other fellow might have had something in mind like picking a pocket but maybe not. Anyway, a funny little incident.
We walked down to the base of the Coliseum which was lighted; very lovely. Moving along we made another large arc and eventually found our way along Via Cavour and back to the Termini. Rome has many grand avenues which were cut through the ancient and medieval city in the 19th and 20th centuries. Immediately off most of these, however, one finds oneself in a maze of narrow alley streets with cobblestone paving, lined with housing and shops. Suddenly one is transported back across the centuries. Mark asked our hotel keeper about the age of this building. He simply shrugged – it`s anyone`s guess.



4:20PM Breakfast at the hotel is a continental affair, served in a miniscule room crowded with tables, chairs, and other guests between 7 and 10:30AM. Juice, sweet buns, croissants, jam, honey, ham, cheese, and a machine that serves a variety of hot drinks, provide the fare. Duly fortified, we headed off yet again to conquer Rome – clearly not to be done in a day! Another three hours of walking saw us past the Circus Maximus, former site of chariot races; across the bridges of the island in the Tiber, sensibly called the Isola Tiberini, which mainly houses a hospital; through the Trastevere neighbourhood with its ancient streets to the Campo de' Fiori, a large square which embraces a daily market. Here Mark bought several bags of spices for future cooking and I bought a more immediately practical umbrella in case of soon-to-come rain. Close by was the lovely Piazza Navonne, once a site of sea battles by gladiators. The Tiber would be diverted to flood the oval-shaped area. Now its perimeter is surrounded by Renaissance-era palaces. In the piazza today is a pre-Christmas carnival complete with men on stilts; an Incan group dancing and playing music to encourage peace on earth; kiosks with every variety of toy, souvenir, and candy imaginable; and, a merry-go-round. It was very crowded with lots of families. We saw one little guy, about 3 or 4 holding on to his dad with one hand and to an enormous helium balloon fashioned like a motorcycle with the other. He walked with his head over one shoulder following every movement the motorcycle made in the wind and carrying on a non-stop conversation with it and about it as he went. Delightful.

It's been more chilly today that we reckoned on -- probably about 4 or 5 degrees. Walking about we became more and more cold. Close to the Barbarini Metro we came across an indoor fashionista mall with central heating, washrooms, and an expresso bar. Fabulous. We arrived back at the hotel after three hours of looking about, tired but laden with sandwiches, salad, and drinks for a picnic in the room. Afterward the weary travellers put their heads down for a long and clearly deserved afternoon nap. Travel is fantstic and amazing but it's work. The spirit soars and the body tries to catch up.

Cheers to everyone. Love to hear from you. Brenda.