Conquering Rome:Part 2

Monday, December-13-10 1:30 PM

We continue to peruse the regular tourist stops: last night, the Trevi fountain and the Spanish steps; this morning, the Vatican museums and St Peter`s Basilica. Every place has been considerably less crowded than when I have visited before, this not being typical tourist weather. Though the Trevi is decorated in over-the-top 18th century rococo style, it nevertheless manages to be always romantic and emit a special aura of excitement all its own. We sat for awhile watching a group of 9 or 10 middle-aged Americans having fun taking pictures of one another with the fountain as a backdrop. It looked rather like a family of brothers and their wives. Before leaving we threw the requisite coins over our shoulders, guaranteeing our return to Rome.

The Spanish steps are from the same period as the Trevi fountain. There were people about last night but their numbers pale beside the crowds of the warmer seasons. Folks from all over, as well as locals, use the steps as a place of meeting and simply as a place to hang out. It was a popular area for the English aristocratic tourists of the 19th century, some of whom would rent rooms and stay on to paint or to write.

This morning the Vatican museums were first on our agenda. There are many museums within the Vatican walls. The diversity of displays from various eras and cultures is staggering. In earlier ages the Papal States comprised large parts of what is now a united Italy. From these and from other dominions have come tribute, presents, and objects of conquer. Mark and I walked past the entrances to many exhibits, heading straight for the Sistine Chapel. Along each side of the chapel are benches which allow one to gawk in comfort. It is a large, rectangular room with a disproportionally high, slightly arched ceiling. The ceiling and the wall over the altar at the front of the chapel were painted by Michelangelo. Around the sides of the room are pictures of various popes, as well as scenes from the life of Christ: the baptism by John, preaching to the multitudes, healing the sick, the Last Supper, and so on. All are painted by other artists contemporary to Michelangelo. The difference between the styles of these artists and the Master are incredible. All of the scenes from Christ`s life depict stationary, clothed figures. Michelangelo`s figures are all movement and energy, fairly bursting from the walls they are painted upon. The ceiling, showing scenes from Genesis, was done earlier than the end wall and is lighter and more cartoon-like in the simplicity of the drawing. The wall over the altar depicts the Last Judgement. Figures are contorted in the intensity of their experiences of judgement by the large, central Christ figure. Being ``out of time`` few of the people are clothed. Most are male; all are in incredible physical shape. No obesity at the end of time! Male genitalia are, for the most part, discreetly draped with an end of a scarf or something resembling a jock-strap. The figures are full and generously drawn. Towards the bottom of the scene sinners are pushed down into hell, by avenging angels or by a boatman who shoves them into the waters of what must be the River Styx. Trumpeters blare to underscore the horror of their presumably deserved fates. It was wonderful to be there for a time taking all of this in. What a master!

Leaving the chapel we found ourselves clearly routed towards the exit. No second chances for the museums we had eschewed! Passing along the grand corridors we saw bits and pieces of other displays and through the windows, glimpses of St Peter`s and of the Vatican gardens. Down several levels and passed many souvenir kiosks, we found the cafeteria. One could buy a snack and move with it outside to the garden to sit on wicker chairs, taking the air and the sun. Truly divine!

From the Vatican we walked around its perimeter to the entrance for St Peter`s. The line-up for the metal detector and security check was relatively short and before long we were within its enormous walls. St Peter`s is massive and initially impressive but I find that it leaves me rather cold: such large spaces, so much marble, so much enormous and not too interesting statuary. The best parts are Michelangelo`s Pieta, which made me weep the first time I viewed it, and, the magnificent dome, also designed by Michelangelo.

Tomorrow we may take a bullet train to Florence for the day. All will be revealed in my next post. Cheers. Brenda.

PS: If you look to the very bottom of the page, you will find a few more photos.